CLIMB MOUNT KHUITEN
MOUNT KHUITEN (14,350FT/4375M) – MALCHIN PEAK (13,245FT/4037M)
The Mongolian Altai Mountains, straddling the Russian and Chinese borders, are the tallest of the three major mountain ranges of Mongolia. Riddled with eternally snow-capped peaks and glaciers, they provide some of the most beautiful sights in Mongolia. The Altai’s highest peak, Khuiten (4,734m), and four neighboring peaks along the massive Potanin glacier are collectively known as Tavan Bogd, “The Five Saints.” The four other mountains are Nairamdal (4,082m), Snowchurch (4,071m), Ulgii (4,113m), and Malchin (4050m).The Altais are home to a variety of wildlife including argali sheep, ibex, elk, brown beers, marmots, foxes, and wolves as well as the endangered snow leopard and lynx. Birds in the area include Saker falcons, Altai snow cocks, and the famed golden eagles used by Kazakh eagle-hunters. The Altais also boast numerous archaeological sights, including petroglyphs, deer stones, Turkic stone men, and ancient burial sites. The trip is only available from June to late August. The window is short because of early heavy snows during autumn in the Altai Tavan Bogd, Baga Turgen Mountains. Khuiten (Cold) Mountain is the tallest mountain in Mongolia.
- Duration: 12 days 11 nights
- Price from: 2800 USD
- Best Time: July 1st – Sept 5
- Group size: 2-12
- Destination: Western Mongolia
- Difficulty: Moderate
- Suitable age: 15-65
Detailed tour itinerary
Early in the morning flight from Ulaanbaatar to Ulgii city. Our crew will pick you up at the airport. Flight time takes about 2:30 hours. In summer flight schedule to Olgii is early in the morning. After breakfast drive to Altai Tavan Bogd national park. It is a about 7-8 hours of driving to get to the ranger’s station which is about 200 km. Pitch our camp. From here our trekking trip will be started. We will come to Tsagaan gol valley’s ranger station. Overnight in tent. (BLD)
In the morning we load up the camels and hike for approximately 15 kilometres to our basecamp at 3095 metres elevation on the edge of the Potaniin Glacier, at the foot of Malchin Peak. The hike takes us over lush alpine tundra, through herds of camels, with fantastic views directly across the glacier to our objective peaks. After establishing camp in the early afternoon, we take a quick lunch and then there is the opportunity to do some exploration in the vicinity of the camp. Overnight in tent. (BLD)
From our basecamp, we make an acclimatization climb of Malchin Peak (4037m), which rises directly behind the camp. This peak provides a long climb, mostly on scree and requiring no technical equipment, yet affords tremendous views over Russia to the north and across to the glaciated peaks of Altai Tavan Bogd, including the very impressive Mount Khuiten, to the south. We return to our basecamp in the late afternoon for a well-earned rest and a ready supply of tea. Overnight in tent. (BLD)
At this stage, it is useful for us to take something of a rest day, before setting out to climb the next 2 peaks. So, we spend a day at camp, but also take the opportunity to spend some time on the nearby Potaniin Glacier, putting on our crampons, roping up and refreshing our glacier skills, before we set out properly onto the glacier tomorrow. Overnight in tent. (BLD)
We have opted to make our first priority the ascent of Khuiten (4374m), since this is the most important of our objectives. Today, we make an early start for the walk up to our camp below our premier objective, Mount Khuiten. It is a 5 to 6 hour walk, following the right side of the Potaniin Glacier, before crossing to the center. We rope up for this glacier travel and group members will be carrying their own equipment, plus a share of the group’s equipment. The views, looking back down towards the basecamp area, are truly spectacular, with the glacier sweeping off into the distance. Altitude at our high camp is 3775 meters.. Overnight in tent. (BLD)
After an alpine start, we cross the glacier to begin our ascent, climbing snow-slopes of varying angle. The group will climb roped-together, since there are crevasses on our route. The middle part of the route follows straightforward mixed terrain on a rocky ridge and, if conditions dictate, we may fix ropes on a couple of short, steep sections. From the summit we look down into Russia, China and Mongolia – the landscapes of all three countries are distinctly different. We return to camp via the same route. Overnight in tent. (BLD)
Another fairly early start today, even though our objective is only a couple of hours away. We again cross the Potaniin Glacier to climb Nairandal Peak (4082m). This is the so-called `Friendship Peak`, which gets its name from the fact that it lies at the point where the borders of Russia, China and Mongolia meet. The only opportunity that we will have to visit Russia and China on the same day without visas. This peak involves little more than an easy walk on glaciated terrain and we should be back in camp after 3 hours, ie. by mid-morning. We may pack up the camp straight away and make the 5 hour return trek to basecamp or we may opt to stay a further night at the high camp and cross the glacier the following morning when snow conditions will be at their best.
Today, we drive back to Olgii, stopping along the way to visit local Kazakh families – no drive in Bayan Olgii Province is complete without stopping for tea breaks. We will have the opportunity to see the magnificent golden eagles which are used for hunting by the Kazakh people in the winter. Arriving in Olgii in the early evening, we check in at a ger (yurt) camp.
Transfer to Ulaanbaatar Airport in the morning, timed to meet the check in for the Aeroflot flight.
TOUR INCLUDES
TOUR EXCLUDES
PLEASE NOTE
We can include domestic airline tickets and other expenses in Ulaanbaatar according to your wishes and manage theme for you. Please do not hesitate to ask if you will have more questions about the tour and we will be very happy to help!
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